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Before I tell you about the most powerful tool in lawn care, the tool that will get you to a remarkable showcase lawn, let’s talk about fertilizer. When you purchase fertilizer, whether it is for your lawn, trees or scrubs, you will notice three numbers on the bag. These numbers represent the  (N) nitrogen, (P) phosphorus and (K) potassium. These are the major nutrient needed for a plant to remain healthy and survive. All three of these nutrients must be present and at optimal levels for the turf to thrive.  A few years ago the State of Michigan passed a law banning the major and very necessary nutrient (P) phosphorus. This nutrient is needed for root development and for the plant to thrive. So you will notice on many turf fertilizer products that the middle number is now zero.  By law as a licensed lawn fertilizing company we cannot apply a product containing (P) phosphorus.   The summer of 2012 was the first time in the twenty years that Master Gardener Lawn Care has been performing Soil Tests that we have seen low (P) phosphorus levels. The ban of a few years ago is starting to affect the health of our turf. Scientifically a plant cannot continue to survive without one of its major nutrients.  There are two exceptions to this regulation. The first one is, if we are fertilizing a newly seeded law. Remember (P) phosphorus is required by plants in developing a strong root system. The second is if the soil is determined to be low or deficient in (P) phosphorus. The only way to real know that a plant is in need of (P) phosphorus is by performing a SOIL TEST.  So, the SOIL TEST is now the most powerful tool in lawn care and in the lawn fertilizing industry.  A soil test is the only way we can determine the (P) phosphorus level in your soil. Once we have the current level we can calculate the amount of (P) phosphorus that needs to be added to the soil.               There are many other helpful things, such as pH, that a soil test can tell you. But for this discussion we are only considering (P) phosphorus.  Please note that the only way a truly customized lawn care program can only be developed is also with the help of a soil test.  So if someone is promising a customized lawn fertilizing program you may want to ask to see the soil test it is based upon.  Master Gardener Lawn Care has been creating award winning lawns for over twenty years. We are members of and abide by the firm code of ethics of the Michigan Green Industry Association. We provide lawn care services in Macomb, Oakland and Berrien Counties. About the Author Patrick Wesley is a Certified Master Gardener and Owner of Master Gardener Lawn Care located in Macomb County, Michigan.  Pat’s Company, Master Gardener Lawn Care, provides organic based lawn fertilizing services in Macomb Township, Shelby Township, Washington Township, Chesterfield Township, New Baltimore, Clinton Township, Warren, and Sterling Heights in Macomb County, Rochester Hills, Troy, and Royal Oak, Berkley Huntington Wood in Oakland County and St Joseph, Benton Harbor, Coloma, Steve in Berrien County, Michigan. Master Gardener Lawn Care was established in 1991 and provides lawn fertilizing services, core aeration, weed control, soil testing and insect control. For more information on our lawn care and lawn fertilizing services or to request a free lawn care analysis please visit our Free Lawn Fertilizing Service Estimate page on the www.mastergardenerlawncare.com website Â
While performing several free lawn analysis today, I noticed some SNOW MOLD in Shelby and Clinton Townships. It is nowhere as invasive as in the past and I was a little surprise to see any at all this year. Normally we see snow mold only after the snow has been on the lawn for several weeks.  This year the snow was lighter and was never on the lawns more then a week or two.  If you see some areas on your lawn, now that the snow is gone, that look like the pictures below it may be gray or pink snow mold. The good news is that in most cases this won’t require much attention on your part. But we do get call from our clients asking what is happening. Gray snow is what we see most of in our area. Like the name suggest it is recognize by the white to gray color. No need to worry it will clear up with the help of you first fertilizing application. You can help the process by lightly racking the area to allow air to circulate and speed up the recovery of the damage turf. Pink snow mold is little more serious of the two. It has a pink to salmon in color. Again the first fertilizing application will stimulate the turf to grow and the lawn should recover. Light raking will also help to speed up the recovery. There is more of a chance that pink snow damage may need to be over seeded.  Wait and see if it recovers. I have seen both gray and pink snow mold on lawns together. If you are concern about the condition of your lawn at this time of year, please feel free to call Master Gardener Lawn Care LLC for a free lawn analysis. We would be thrilled to treat your lawn or advise you on the best products available for you to create a showcase lawn. Master Gardener Lawn Care has been creating award winning lawns for over twenty years. We are members of and abide by the firm code of ethics of the Michigan Green Industry Association. We provide lawn care services in Macomb, Oakland and Berrien Counties. About the Author Patrick Wesley is a Certified Master Gardener and Owner and Director of Operations for Master Gardener Lawn Care located in Macomb County, Michigan.  Pat’s Company, Master Gardener Lawn Care, provides an organic based lawn fertilizing service in Macomb Township, Shelby Township, Washington Township, Chesterfield Township, New Baltimore, Clinton Township, Warren, and Sterling Heights in Macomb County, Rochester Hills, Troy, and Royal Oak, Berkley Huntington Wood in Oakland County and St Joseph, Benton Harbor, Coloma, Steve in Berrien County, Michigan. Master Gardener Lawn Care was established in 1991 and provides lawn fertilizing service, core aeration, weed control, soil testing and insect control. For more information on our lawn care and lawn fertilizing services or to request a free lawn care analysis please visit our Free Lawn Fertilizing Service Estimate page on the mastergardenerlawncare.com website Â
Moisture Manager Reduces Watering by 50%.  Master Gardener Lawn Care is an Award-Winning Lawn Fertilizing Service operating in Macomb, Oakland and Berrien Counties that was founded by a Master Gardener. At Master Gardener Lawn Care we are always looking for products and services that will provide our clients with the best lawn in their neighborhood at the best possible cost. One product that we have recently researched, HYDRETAIN, is proven to reduce watering requirements by 50%. Please see the information below and if you are interested feel free to give us a call. Hydretain by Ecologel Solutions LLC is a patented blend of liquid humecÂtant and hygroscopic compounds that attract free water molecules from the air within the soil. That water is then available to plant roots. Hydretain creates a sub-surface film that collects and stores moisture on plant roots and soil particle surfaces. What does all this mean? Consider what hapÂpens when you fill a glass with a cold drink. EventuÂally, water begins to condense on the side of the glass. The soil works in much the same way when Hydretain is applied. At the time that plants would normally go into drought stress, there is a very high level of humidity in the soil that is typically lost to evaporation. Rather than allowÂing that moisture to escape to the atmosphere above, Hydretain attracts the molecules of water and keeps that moisture in the soil. Hydretain captures water that is already there, reducing the irrigation or rainfall required to deliver adequate water to plant and turf roots. This is what makes Hydretain a unique water conservation and landscape management tool. According to Ecologel Solutions, you can water 50 percent less with Hydretain. So for areas where water restrictions are in place, landscape conÂtractors can maintain the integrity of properties while adhering to requirements. And in areas where water savings is not yet an issue, Hydretain minimizes drought-stress cycles between rainfall and irrigation, promotes healthier plants and ultimately delivers a better quality landscape.  Hydretain Root Zone Moisture Manager will:       Double or even triple the days between required watering       Reduce or eliminate drought stress cycles       Enhance seed germination       Control or eliminate dry spot problems       Improve transplant establishment       Protect non-irrigated or poorly irrigated areas   “Hydretain” – Top 10 Frequently Asked Questions Q. What is Hydretain? How does it work? A. Hydretain is blend of patented hygroscopic and humectant compounds that is applied to the root zone of plants. This coats the roots and converts subsurface humidity into usable water for the plants. Q. How is Hydretain applied? A. Until recently, Hydretain was only applied by a spray or drench. For lawns, diluted Hydretain is sprayed onto the grass and then watered in so that it reaches the root zone. For ornamental plants, shrubs and trees it is drenched into the root zone. Q. When should Hydretain be applied? A. Hydretain can be applied anytime during a plant’s life cycle. However, the best time to apply Hydretain is before hot dry weather or drought conditions set in. Q. How long does Hydretain last? How often should it be applied? A. Hydretain lasts up to 3 months before it biodegrades. Re-apply at least every three months or more often for even greater water conservation. Q. Is Hydretain safe? Will it harm my pets? A. Hydretain is primarily made from food-grade ingredients and natural plant extracts. It is non-toxic. It will not harm your pets. Q. Is Hydretain beneficial to my bedding plants, shrubs and trees? Fruit trees and vegetable gardens? A. Hydretain has been proven effective through University of Texas and Florida trials and independent use on most types of ornamental plants, shrubs, trees, grasses and food producing agricultural plants. Q. When will I see results? What type of results should I expect? A. Hydretain becomes effective when it is drawn up against plant roots, generally within one to two waterings after the initial application. Results may vary, a 35% to 50% reduction in normal watering requirements is expected. Q. Will Hydretain hold too much water if we get a heavy rain fall? Will Hydretain wash through the soil with heavy rainfall?  A. Hydretain has little moisture holding capacity. Its function is to convert soil humidity into plant useable droplets when water is no longer available to plant roots. Hydretain may wash through the soil if heavy rainfall follows closely after application, before Hydretain has time to attach to plant roots. Hydretain is usually drawn up against roots within the first one to two required waterings after application. Q. Is Hydretain safe to use with other lawn care products? A. Yes, as a general rule Hydretain may be used with most other lawn care products. Hydretain has been shown to help improve the uptake of nutrients and assist in the function of pesticides and fungicides. Q. Is Hydretain beneficial if I don’t water at all? A. Hydretain has proven to reduce watering requirements by as much as 50% or more, however, if no watering is done and there is no rainfall, eventually plants and turf will go into normal drought stress.  About the Author Patrick Wesley is a Master Gardener and part owner of Master Gardener Lawn Care located in Macomb County, Michigan.  Master Gardener Lawn Care provides an organic based lawn fertilizing service in Macomb Township, Shelby Township, Washington Township, Chesterfield Township, New Baltimore, Clinton Township, Warren, and Sterling Heights in Macomb County, Rochester Hills, Oakland Township, Troy, Royal Oak, Berkley, and Huntington Woods in Oakland County, and St Joseph, Benton Harbor, Bridgeman, Coloma, Hartford, Watervliet, and Stevensville in Berrien County, Michigan. Master Gardener Lawn Care was established in 1991 and provides lawn fertilizing service, core aeration, weed control, soil testing and insect control. For more information on our lawn care and lawn fertilizing services or to request a free lawn care analysis please visit our Free Lawn Fertilizing Service Estimate page on the mastergardenerlawncare.com website
We received this e-mail form Michigan State University Extension and would like to share it with our customers at Master Gardener Lawn Care LLC. Common suspects involved in winter landscape damage Identify these pesky, winter, landscape pests by the location of the damage they cause. Posted on January 4, 2013 by Gretchen Voyle, Michigan State University Extension Winter appears to be a time of snowy peace when viewing the landscape outside the windows. But in reality, it is a very busy time for a number of animals. Some critters that may cause landscape damage during the growing season hibernate or partially hibernate during the winter and don’t feed. The woodchuck and thirteen-lined ground squirrel sleep the winter away underground. The eastern chipmunk partially hibernates and may pop above ground occasionally if its food stores run low. The amount of snow and how long it lasts, as well as how much really cold weather we receive, determines if this winter will cause critter problems. Last winter (2011-2012) could be called “The Winter that Wasn’t.” When small amounts of snow fell, it warmed up in the next several days and most of it melted. Animals could gather plenty of food in fall and put on a nice layer of fat that helped them survive and stay warm. During the winter, finding extra food was not too difficult. The 20120-2013 winter is different. We have had colder weather and more snow cover by January than all of the last winter. The most common animals to take a literal bite out of your landscape are the ones that are active during the winter, like the whitetail deer, cottontail rabbits and meadow voles. Let’s start at the ground where damage occurs. Ground level and above Voles or meadow mice chew the bark off young trees and shrubs or those with thin, bark-like maples and fruit trees. They have upper and lower incisors that leave characteristic up-and-down chewing marks at ground level or slightly above. If the plant is girdled (bark removed) all or most of the way around, it will kill the plant. Vole damage. Photo credit: Paul Bachi, University of Kentucky Research and Education Center, Bugwood.org Voles will dig under mulch or snow and eat the crowns of perennial plants if the soil is not frozen. This is the portion of the plant where the roots and top meet. If snow covers the lawn and food is in short supply, they will work under the snow, clipping serpentine trails into the turf. This usually does not kill the grass, but looks bad for awhile in the spring. Above ground level to possibly 3 feet high Rabbits also have long upper and lower incisors and will leave bigger chew marks on bark. They are capable of biting off small twigs and buds to supplement their diet. They can reach higher on trunks and will stand upright on hard packed snow and can reach 18 inches above the snow cover. Rabbit damage. Photo credit: Steven Katovich, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org Branches, twigs and buds to at least 4 feet high Deer can feed much higher yet. They can stand on their hind feet and reach over 4 feet high if motivated. Their chewing damage is different because they have only lower incisors that meet a leathery gum on the top. They remove twigs and buds with a diagonal slice. They feed happily on evergreens like white cedar, arborvitae, pines, spruce and yews. Tender buds on maples, dogwood, aspens and willows are favorites.
Award-Winning Lawn Fertilizing Service by a Master Gardener Welcome to award winning Master Gardener Lawn Care. We provide grub control in Macomb, Oakland and Berrien Counties and create REMARKABLE showcase lawns! While doing estimates in February, I came across grub damage in several lawns. The affected areas could have been from grubs last fall or a byproduct of the mild winter. In either case the potential customers should continue to monitor for increase grub damage and consider a control method. For this reason I have included below and article from the Master Gardener Lawn Care service page on our web site. Before we talk about controlling grub, we would like to mention that Master Gardener Lawn Care is a firm believer and active in the practice of Integrated Pest Management (IPM). IPM is an effective and environmentally sensitive approach to pest management that relies on a combination of common-sense practices. IPM programs use current, comprehensive information on the life cycles of pests and their interaction with the environment. This information, in combination with available pest control methods, is used to manage pest damage by the most economical means, and with the least possible hazard to people, property, and the environment. Master Gardener Lawn Care is licensed to control grubs and other insects in your lawn. We use products that are highly recommended for this purpose. First, it is important to realize that healthy turf, especially if there is plenty of rain in the spring and fall can support a grub population of 5 grubs per square foot with no visible turf damage. A lawn should be mowed at 3.5 to 4.0 inches in height and properly fertilized to maximize root growth. But if the grub population is high, or if there is a history of damage in an area, it may be necessary to consider using chemicals for grub control. When chemical control is determined to be necessary, by discussions with our client and Master Gardener Lawn Care, we must decide which type of product is best for the situation. The two types are CURATIVE or PREVENTIVE control products. Curative compounds must be applied when the grubs are present and active in the Spring or Fall. Approaching grub control from the curative standpoint avoids unnecessary applications of chemical, but is not as effective for a long period of time as the preventive products. Preventive compounds must be applied at the time of egg hatching. There are preventive products that work very well on newly hatched grubs but do not work well for large grubs. The product needs to be applied and irrigated into the soil during late June or July. If applied in the spring or fall, they will have little or no effect on the grubs currently in the lawn and may degrade slightly by the time the grubs hatch-out in late July About the Author Ryan Mccuen is an Owner and Director of Operations for Master Gardener Lawn Care located in Macomb County, Michigan.  Ryan’s Company, Master Gardener Lawn Care, provides an organic based lawn fertilizing service in Macomb Township, Shelby Township, Washington Township, Chesterfield Township, New Baltimore, Clinton Township, Warren, Sterling Heights in Macomb County, Rochester Hills, Troy, Royal Oak, Berkley Huntington Wood in Oakland County and St Joseph, Benton Harbor, Coloma, Steve in Berrien County, Michigan. Master Gardener Lawn Care was established in 1991 and provides lawn fertilizing service, core aeration, weed control, soil testing and insect control. For more information on our lawn care and lawn fertilizing services or to request a free lawn care analysis please visit our Free Lawn Fertilizing Service Estimate page on the mastergardenerlawncare.com website
Lawn Fertilizing Service in Macomb, Oakland and Berrien County Michigan. Award-Winning Lawn Fertilizing Service by a Master Gardener. Master Gardener Lawn Care’s lawn fertilizing service has come across this turfgrass alert from Kevin Frank from Michigan State University and we would like to share it with our clients in Macomb, Oakland and Berrien County, Michigan. Master Gardener Lawn Care has also seen some heat tracks on lawns in Macomb, Oakland and Berrien Counties. Like Kevin says in the memo below, the turf will recover once water is applied. It may take up to 3 weeks to fully restore it’s normal color. Try to keep up with proper watering to avoid this from happening to your lawn. Heat tracking damage on lawns Traffic from people or mowers on turf that is under stress from high temperatures may result in heat tracking damage. Published June 24, 2011 Kevin Frank, Michigan State University Extension, Department of Crop and Soil Sciences The hot weather from a couple of weeks ago resulted in another outbreak of heat tracking on lawns. For the lack of a better term, I call the damage imposed from any sort of trafficking on heat or drought stressed turf “heat tracking.” Often, heat tracking is the result of mowers running over the turf when it is near the wilting point. The resultant damage may look like RoundUp was on the tires of the equipment. If the lawn is starting to look blueish or you notice foot printing on the turf, it’s likely that any sort of traffic (mowers or people) will result in heat tracking. The only way to really avoid this damage is to avoid mowing during the hottest time of the day when the turf is under stress. Although heat tracking damage can look really bad, the good news is the recent rains and cool temperatures should help the turf recover within a week or two.
Lawn Fertilizing Service in Macomb, Oakland and Berrien County Michigan.  Award-Winning Lawn Fertilizing Service by a Master Gardener.  Master Gardener Lawn Care’s lawn fertilizing service has come across this outstanding article by Terry Davis from Michigan State University and we would like to share it with our clients in Macomb, Oakland and Berrien County, Michigan. Understanding lawn grub control products Which products work for grubs and when to use them on your lawn Published April 13, 2011 Terry Davis, Michigan State University Extension, Department of Entomology It is that time of year again. Lawns are starting to green up nicely, especially with the occasional rains. However, I have noticed patches in some lawns that are not turning green. Sometimes, a flock of birds will be observed working around the dead patches. These patches, in non-irrigated lawns, may be due to grubs. Make sure the problem is grubs Before doing anything to control grubs or even to re-seed an area that is not starting to turn green, it is important to make sure that the problem is indeed grubs. If you see a dead patch, dig up a few shovelfuls of soil at the edge of the bare spot and look for 1-inch long, C-shaped grubs. These are more than likely the larvae of European chafer if they are found in non-irrigated turfgrass. European chafer can devastate a lawn with little warning because the adult beetles are not visible to the average person. They do not become active until sunset during late June and early July and can easily be missed as they move out of the soil and congregate in trees. Since they move back into the grass and lay eggs about 11 PM, the average person would never notice them. European chafer grubs can now be found in all of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula. Japanese beetle grubs also feed on turf roots in home lawns, but they are not as much a problem as European chafer. Japanese beetles like to lay their eggs on irrigated turf like golf courses and athletic fields. They will live in home lawns but rarely cause turf damage because they avoid dry soils. Both Japanese beetle and European chafer lay most of their eggs in July. The eggs hatch about 10 days later. It is important to realize that healthy turf, especially if there is plenty of rain in the spring and fall can support a grub population of 5 grubs per square foot with no visible turf damage. A lawn should be mowed at 3.5 to 4.0 inches in height and properly fertilized to maximize root growth. If the grub population is high, or if there is a history of damage in an area, it may be necessary to consider using chemicals for grub control. What you’ll find on the store shelves I went to several of the local lawn and garden centers in the Lansing area to see what kinds of products are available that specifically claim they will work to control grubs. The number of products available that listed grubs on the bag ranged from five to nine depending on which store I checked. The profusion of different products can be rather mystifying. I found three types of products that indicated on the bag that they would control grubs: 1) preventive products, 2) curative products and 3) the occasional product that the manufacturers would like to think might control grubs (but won’t). Curative compounds should be applied when the grubs are present and active. Approaching grub control from the curative standpoint avoids unnecessary applications of chemical, but is not as effective as the preventive products. Preventive compounds must be applied at the time of egg hatching or when grubs are small to be effective. The first critical issue is to determine what active ingredient the product contains by looking at the label. Look on the bag at the lower right or left corner to determine what and how much active ingredient is in the product. PREVENTIVE products to prevent grubs next fall (2011) and spring (2012) Products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam, halofenozide, chlothianidin or chlorantraniloprole WILL NOT CONTROL GRUBS IN THE SPRING. They are preventive products that work very well on newly hatched grubs, but do not work well for large grubs. There are different recommended timings for application depending on the ingredient you buy. Although the bag often says apply anytime from May to August 15, it is highly recommended that products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam, clothianidin or halofenazide be applied and irrigated into the soil during June or July. If applied in the spring or fall, they will have little or no effect on the grubs currently in the lawn and may degrade slightly by the time the grubs hatch-out in late July. Preventative applications should target the newly hatched grubs. Therefore, it’s best to apply preventative products prior to July 15 so that rainfall can incorporate the material into the soil to control the grubs for that fall and the following spring. There is a new active ingredient called chlorantraniliprole that is also very effective in preventing grub problems, but it is less water soluble than the preventive compounds mentioned above. Since it takes quite a bit longer to move down to where the grubs will be, it is best to apply a product containing chorantraniliprole in late April or early May for it to be most effective when the grubs hatch in July and August. CURATIVE products: What to use in the spring or fall Any product that contains carbaryl (Sevin) or trichlorfon (Dylox) will work well when applied in the spring (from March to mid-May) or in the fall (September 1 to November 1). Our research has indicated that carbaryl has been a little more consistent on European chafer grubs than trichlorfon. Both compounds work equally well on Japanese beetle grubs. These are considered curative compounds as opposed to the preventive compounds in the previous section above, and will kill the grubs currently in the ground. It is necessary to irrigate after applying any curative product to get the chemical to the grubs. Run a lawn sprinkler for at least 60 minutes over treated areas (fill a bucket to 1/2 inch). It will take 10 to 14 days for the grubs to begin to die. One trichlorfon product called Bayer Advanced 24 Hour Grub Control seems to indicate by the name that it will kill grubs in 24 hours. However, I doubt that any of the insecticides will kill grubs in the soil in much less than 5 days unless there is a very heavy rain and very warm temperatures the day of application. Do not apply any curative compounds after May 15 as the grubs stop feeding in late May. These “curative” compounds will typically give 60 to 70 percent control of grubs. If grubs are present in a lawn in high numbers, it is advisable to wait for a week after applying a chemical control before reseeding. DO NOT USE THESE for grub control: Products that will not control grubs at any time DO NOT USE products containing ONLY lambda-cyhalothrin, gamma-cyhalothrin, bifenthrin, deltamethrin, cyfluthrin or permethrin for grub control. PRODUCTS CONTAINING ONLY THESE INGREDIENTS WILL NOT WORK FOR GRUB CONTROL when applied to the soil surface as the actie compound will bind with organic material and will not move down to where the grubs are feeding. These products work well for above-ground feeding insects that live on the grass leaves or soil surface but not for insects that feed on the roots. There are a few combination products that include one of the above mentioned chemicals and imidacloprid or clothianidin. These products will work because they include a product that will move down to where the grubs are feeding. But I did find one product that said it would control grubs that contained only gamma-cyhalothrin. We tested this product in 2006 and the results were the same as doing nothing at all. A final note about combination products There are several turf products containing two active chemicals: a grub control product and a surface insect control product. They will contain one of the preventive grub compounds and one of the compounds mentioned in the category above as ineffective for grubs. These will work fine for grubs if used as described for the preventive grub control. But if there is no need for surface insect control, it would be best not to use a combination product. There are many insects that are predators of other insects, and there are many species of insects and arthropods that do beneficial things to turf that are all very negatively impacted by unnecessary insecticide applications. In summary Check the bag to determine what active ingredient the product contains. Do not use products containing only lambda-cyhalothin, gamma-cyhalothrin, bifenthrin, deltamethrin, cyfluthrin or permethrin for any phase of grub control. Do not use preventive compounds such as halfenozide, thiamethoxam, clothianidin, or imidacloprid now. Use them in June or July to control grubs that would be damaging turf in the fall. The preventive compound chloraniliprole should be applied in late April or Early May to control grubs that would be damaging turf in the fall, as it will take longer for the material to move to where the grubs will be feeding in July. To kill grubs in the spring Â(or fall), use carbaryl or trichlorfon and irrigate. Always wear rubber gloves and rubber boots when applying insecticides to turfgrass. Make sure to irrigate the lawn with at least a half inch of water and allow the grass to dry before allowing anyone (or pets) into the treated area. Store insecticides products in a locked cabinet inaccessible to children. Products available Below is a short list of products now being sold for grub control as of April 6, 2011 in the four stores I checked in Mid-Michigan. Gardentech Sevin Lawn Insect Granules carbaryl 2.0% Apply in spring or fall to active grubs. (local distributors name) Lawn Insect Control and Fertilizer Carbaryl 4.3% and fertilizer Apply in spring or fall to active grubs. Bayer Advanced 24 hr Grub Killer Plus trichlorfon 9.3% Apply in spring or fall to active grubs. Scotts Grub-Ex chlorantraniliprole 0.08% Apply between April 15 and May 15 for best results. Bonide Grub Beater imidacloprid 0.5% Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results. Bayer Advanced Season Long Grub Control and Turf Revitalizer imidacloprid 0.25% and fertilizer Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results. Bayer Advanced Season Long Grub Control imidacloprid 0.25% Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results. Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer cyfluthrin 0.05% and imidacloprid 0.15% Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results. Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer Once and Done Granules gamma-cyhalothrin 0.05% Will not kill grubs at any rate.  Master Gardener Lawn Care, provides an organic based lawn fertilizing service in Macomb Township, Shelby Township, Washington Township, Chesterfield Township, New Baltimore, Clinton Township, Warren, Sterling Heights in Macomb County, Rochester Hills, Troy Royal Oak, Berkley Huntington Wood in Oakland County and St Joseph, Benton Harbor, Coloma, Steve in Berrien County, Michigan. Master Gardener Lawn Care was established in 1991 and provides lawn fertilizing service, core aeration, weed control, soil testing and insect control. For more information on our lawn care and lawn fertilizing services or to request a free lawn care analysis please visit our Free Lawn Fertilizing Service Estimate page on the mastergardenerlawncare.com website
Lawn Fertilizing Service and Crabgrass Control in Macomb, Oakland and Berrien County Michigan.  www.mastergardenerlawncare.com Award-Winning Lawn Fertilizing Service by a Master Gardener. Master Gardener Lawn Care is ready to start controlling crabgrass in Macomb, Oakland and Berrien County, Michigan. Master Gardener Lawn Fertilizing Service has the passion for caring for lawns that comes only from a Master Gardener! We enjoy what we do and our clients’ lawns are the proof! This is the time of year lawn fertilizing services start springing into action. It’s great to be outside again! We would like to give you a few turf tips on how to get the best results and a great looking lawn this year, check our website: lawnfertilizingservice.com for our latest advice. For our customers it is time to sit back and enjoy the Spring weather as Master Gardener Lawn Fertilizing Service does the work for you.  Are you a do-it-yourselfer? You can also access our website at: mastergardenerlawncare.com where we will walk you through the lawn care season one application at a time. Keep checking back and you’ll get all the steps you need to get the lawn of your dreams, and keep it all year long. The Master Gardener Lawn Care website will also help inform you about diseases and pests that are active in your area this season. Lawns are what we do and we do them BEST! The end of March is, in Michigan, when we begin to apply Application #1 or the Early Spring Application. In most cases we will be applying a pre-emergent crabgrass control and a special blend of organic based slow-released lawn fertilizer. Timing of this application is extremely important in order to get the maximum benefit of the pre-emergent and save you money in the long term. To control crabgrass that has germinated can be very expensive. Because we apply a professional grade product we have a longer window to apply the product. If you do it yourself the best advice we can give you is not to apply the pre-emergent too soon. Wait as long as possible. Here is your first Master Gardener secret of the year! This is how we determine when to apply the crabgrass pre-emergent to achieve the best control. Two words: SOIL TEMPERATURE!  We actually measure the soil temperature several times a week during the Spring to make sure we are on schedule to get the product on our customers’ lawns in time. To be effective, pre-emergence herbicides must be in place before germination takes place. Pre-emergence treatments are preferred because they are generally more effective for crabgrass control. In general, pre-emergence herbicides should be applied when soil temperatures reach 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit for 3 days. A great indicator to help you determine when the soil is getting close to the target temperature is the blooming of the forsythia plant. Forsythias are the yellow bushes you see everywhere in the Spring.  Applying at this time will allow the pre-emergence herbicide enough time to form a barrier before the crabgrass seedlings germinate. Pre-emergence herbicides work by inhibiting the growth of young seedlings.  These products do not eliminate established plants. In Michigan, this is usually around April 15 but can be as late as May 1.  Applications made too early in the spring have the potential to break down before the end of the germination window. So, when you see those yellow bushes, apply your crabgrass control product and you will great control of crabgrass for the entire season!  NOTE: Knowing when crabgrass is likely to be present is helpful in proper identification and control of weedy grasses in your lawn. Homeowners who complain of crabgrass infestations in April and May are usually identifying tall fescue, nimblewill or quackgrass. Crabgrass germination typically begins in early May when soil temperatures reach 62 degrees Fahrenheit at a depth of 1 to 2 inches, or about two weeks after the forsythia blooms begin to drop. Therefore it is almost impossible to have crabgrass present in a lawn in April or May.      About the Author Patrick Wesley is a Master Gardener and founder of Master Gardener Lawn Care located in Macomb County, Michigan.  Pat’s Company, Master Gardener Lawn Care, provides anorganic based lawn fertilizing service throughout Macomb, Oakland and Berrien County, Michigan. Master Gardener Lawn Care was established in 1991 and provides lawn fertilizing service, core aeration, weed control, soil testing and insect control. For more information on our lawn fertilizing services or to request a free lawn care analysis please visit our Free Lawn Fertilizing Service Estimate page on the mastergardenerlawncare.com website.
When the Michigan snow melts in Macomb County, Oakland County and Berrien County you might be in for a surprise.  And that surprise is VOLE damage.  The good news is that in most cases this damage won’t require much attention on your part. But Master Gardener Lawn Fertilizing Service will get calls from our clients asking us what is happening to their lawns. So we think it is important to talk about voles. A vole is a small critter that resembles a mouse. If you notice tracks in your lawn after the snow melts that look as if a garden hose was laid on the lawn for a few days, then you had a vole under the snow. (Please see the pictures of a Vole and Vole damage). The picture of vole damage was taken on February 19, 2011 in the Beacon Square Subdivision at 21 Mile Road and Romeo Plank in Macomb Township, MI.  Voles like to create and live in tunnels under the snow.  You don’t have to worry about the damaged, it will fill in as your lawn begins to green up and grow. If you see new tracks or tunnels after the snow has been gone for a few days, then the vole is still in your lawn and should be eliminated. Begin by looking for openings that the vole can tunnel into such as a down spout, black edging or a hole in a stone wall. They love to go into tunnels. They may also create holes in the lawn. But in most lawns in Macomb County and Oakland County that are growing on heavy clay that is unlikely.  Instead they will look to go into the landscaping and even children’s toys. Anywhere there is a possible tunnel.  The tunnel is key in this situation because that what we have to create in order to trap the voles.If you can find the tunnel they are living in then you can insert some vole poison that can be purchase at most hardware stores.  Read the directions carefully. I prefer not to use the poison because of the possibility of other animals such as dogs or cats coming into contact with it. Most of the time voles are not a major problem but if you would like more information or would like to discuss a plan of correction feel free to call or contact us on our website or on face book. We are not licensed to trap voles but can walk you through the process. About the Author Patrick Wesley is a Master Gardener and founder of Master Gardener Lawn Care located in Macomb County, Michigan.  Pat provides organic based lawn fertilizing services throughout Macomb County, Oakland County and Berrien County, Michigan. Master Gardener Lawn Care was established in 1991 and provides lawn fertilizing, core aeration, weed control, soil testing and insect control. For more information on our lawn fertilizing services or to request a free lawn care analysis please visit our Free Lawn Fertilizing Service Estimate page.
When the Michigan snow melts in the next few weeks in Macomb County, Oakland County and Berrien County you might be in for a surprise.  And that surprise is gray snow mold or pink snow mold. The good news is that in most cases these two issues won’t require much attention on your part. But Master Gardener Lawn Fertilizing Service will get calls from our clients asking us what is happening to their lawns. So we think it is important to talk about these molds.  Gray Snow Mold is what we see most of in Macomb County, Oakland County and our Master Gardener Lawn Care location in Berrien County.  Like the name suggest it is recognized by the white to gray color. No need to worry!  This issue will clear up with the help of a little light raking. Just rake the effected area to allow the air to circulate and the mold will begin to diminish. Your first lawn fertilizing application will also help the process by providing nutrients to your lawn which help the turf to grow and recovery.  Pink Snow Mold is little more serious of the two. It has a pink to salmon color. Again the first lawn fertilizing service application will stimulate the lawn to grow and the lawn should recover. Light raking of the damage turf will also help to speed up the recovery. There is more of a chance that pink snow mold damage may need to be over seeded.  Wait and see if your lawn recovers before taking any additional action. Please note that if you seed at this time you can not apply a crabgrass pre emergent. This pre emergent will also prevent the grass seed from germinating. Read the label on the bag of the pre emergent to see when it is safe to apply without interfering with the germination of the grass seed. Note: It is possible to see both gray and pink snow mold on the lawn together. Why do some lawns get snow molds and some do not? The number one cause of gray or pink snow mold is having snow on the lawn for an extended period of time. Try to eliminate large piles of snow in the same spot year after year.  But two other factors that help increase your chances of acquiring snow molds are over fertilizing in late fall with a high nitrogen fertilizer and a heavy thatch build up. Be careful not to over fertilize in late fall and look into reducing the thatch layer to allow better air circulation. Please see the core aerating video under our SERVICES page on the Master Gardener Lawn Care website for reducing thatch. Please view the video below from our friends at the University of Nebraska for more on snow mold. About the Author Patrick Wesley is a Master Gardener and founder of Master Gardener Lawn Care located in Macomb County, Michigan.  Pat provides organic based lawn fertilizing services throughout Macomb County, Oakland County and Berrien County, Michigan. Master Gardener Lawn Care was established in 1991 and provides lawn fertilizing, core aeration, weed control, soil testing and insect control. For more information on our lawn fertilizing services or to request a free lawn care analysis please visit our Free Lawn Fertilizing Service Estimate page.
Lawn Care Tips
Under the Snow 2014 – Part 1
Lawn Care, Lawn Fertilizing Service, Turf Tip When the Michigan snow melts in the next few weeks...
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